Showing posts with label 1:28. Show all posts
Showing posts with label 1:28. Show all posts
Thursday, August 07, 2008
Upgrades here and there.
Thankfully my part-time really takes care of my hooby budget on my radion control. Got few more 3d design project to go and hopefully partial of the funds goes for brushless motor and ESC upgrade for my 1/18 for up coming preparation for local race especially drift event and sprint. Yesterday i bought a new body shell a HONDA CIVIC Type-R for my NRX-18 1/18 and a replacement parts for the motor mount. I called it investment for my hobby later for resale value. The today received my mini-z parts from overseas supplier mainly on drive terrain parts and differential which worn out pretty fast, My days full of active life outside my home at least avoid me from brain dead which reminds me when was the ;ast time i watch television or movie. Man outdoors never knows what is home entertainment. I spent more time hanging out at night with other R/C enthusiast since i already moded my r/c models with lights which makes it fun to drive at night.
Sunday, August 03, 2008
Saturday Drift night fever
I'm very happy last Sturday night when me and my radio contol buddy when out for our radio control gathering night infront of old "Everise" supermarket where there's a big carpark for drifter and drag racing took place among ourself. I brought out 2x unit of sprinter MINI-Z and NRX-18 for drift. I spent 90% of the time drag racing/sprint againts others racer which at the ended ended tied. Was a funny competition for my 1/28 touring scale MINI-Z versus SAMCO 1/18 touring 4WD. The guy got LIPO in his ride but lucky he got steering servo which results in swirl before reaching the finish line. Crowds are overwhelmed and welcome the duel race...it was fun. The the last 30 minutes my mini bashed against the road devided trashed the servo knuckle sending me reset to pit-stop for servicing. The rest of the time surplus spent watching and cheering my buddy doing drift race around the DIY made circuit. We spent out our time from 10.00pm till 1.00am midnight. Then we spent break time at local coffee shop beside the road for refreshment and chatting till 2.00am. I'll return again for another drag racing duel. Yeah!!
Thursday, July 17, 2008
KYOSHO MINI-Z Body shell installation (REAL DRIVE edition)
TUTORIAL: HOW TO INSTALL AULDEY (REAL DRIVE EDITION) BODY SHELL INTO MINI-Z CHASSIS
__________________________________________________________________________________
This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .
Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:
1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).
__________________________________________________________________________________
Ok then lets mod:
1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell
Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]
2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.
Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]
3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.
Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]
4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.
Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]
5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.
Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]
6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]
Enjoy.
Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]
PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
-------------------------------------------------
Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]
Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]
__________________________________________________________________________________
This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .
Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:
1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).
__________________________________________________________________________________
Ok then lets mod:
1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell
Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]
2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.
Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]
3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.
Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]
4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.
Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]
5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.
Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]
6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]
Enjoy.
Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]
PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
-------------------------------------------------
Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]
Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Dig the LAST CIVIC TYPE-R
HAHAHAHAHA!! some smart kid try to hide this box of limited edition 1/28 scale TYPE-R body shell behind some toy box in our favorite biggest local toy store in our town but yeah i dig it out! Finders keepers. Been waiting months for this body shell and without hesitation i grab quickly and made immediate purchase without second thoughts knowing this models will never ever appear again and its been a collectors item. Why? Because the body shell can be remove and match fit to my KYOSHO MINI-Z chassis perfectly since the sizing is actually the same. Plus it comes with lighting system for front headlights and rear brake lights which need extra re-routing to the power source. Ahhhhh...i'm so happy today. My animal instinct was right when some force persuade me to take a quick visit to the toy shop. YESSSS!!!!
Thursday, July 10, 2008
Oh yes! my spare parts have arrived.
Despite having gloomy day without having fun on my broken desktop PC but instead my happy cloud came back to me again in different genre. I've just ordered some MINI-Z parts few days ago and today it reach to my hand in a flash by parcel delivery service, Oh yes! my mini-z is alive again with new parts and upgrade. Previously my mini-z 1/28 scale R/C broken on critical parts which involve broken suspension tower on both side, cracked steering knuckle, broken rear suspension and cracked top electronic pcb cover and worn out 10T aluminum pinion gears. Now all these news parts mostly from carbon fibre and aluminum parts hopefully could make my mini-z more durable and last longer than expected. The most important thing is to keep hours of fun outdoor. You know being shelled indoors really boring. Well i'm going to fix my mini's. Yeaahhh!!
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