Here's the video from our Saturday noon 12.30pm play. Got both me allokitty, akiraceo, and eru in it.:
Once again we go crazy on hot Saturday noon at 12.30pm buzzing around carpark with our small scale radio control car.
PSP cam onboard NANDA NRX-18 touring car belong to Akiraceo our forum Member....yup the cam is heavy so the car was not in a good balancing mode. The one chasing from behind is my modified auldey mini-monster chassis equipped with HENG LONG AM 27hz receiver, ESC-Castle Creation 1/18 SIDEWINDER MICRO brushless system 4200KV motor, TOWER PRO 9G mini servo, PN Racing bearings and aluminum gears and lots of hop ups. Turning cheap toys into expensive jewel!
As you can see NRX-18 uses Brushless system 6800KV motor value versus mini monster truck which uses 4200KV brushless motor. Both however equipped with the same ESC system: Castle Creation SIDEWINDER. Too bad i lose the race by 2 second. lucky i didn't put LIPO battery else that NRX-18 eat dust.
Showing posts with label auldey. Show all posts
Showing posts with label auldey. Show all posts
Saturday, October 11, 2008
Thursday, July 17, 2008
KYOSHO MINI-Z Body shell installation (REAL DRIVE edition)
TUTORIAL: HOW TO INSTALL AULDEY (REAL DRIVE EDITION) BODY SHELL INTO MINI-Z CHASSIS
__________________________________________________________________________________
This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .
Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:
1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).
__________________________________________________________________________________
Ok then lets mod:
1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell
Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]
2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.
Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]
3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.
Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]
4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.
Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]
5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.
Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]
6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]
Enjoy.
Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]
PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
-------------------------------------------------
Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]
Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]
__________________________________________________________________________________
This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .
Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:
1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).
__________________________________________________________________________________
Ok then lets mod:
1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell
Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]
2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.
Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]
3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.
Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]
4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.
Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]
5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.
Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]
6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]
Enjoy.
Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]
PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
-------------------------------------------------
Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]
Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]
Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Dig the LAST CIVIC TYPE-R
HAHAHAHAHA!! some smart kid try to hide this box of limited edition 1/28 scale TYPE-R body shell behind some toy box in our favorite biggest local toy store in our town but yeah i dig it out! Finders keepers. Been waiting months for this body shell and without hesitation i grab quickly and made immediate purchase without second thoughts knowing this models will never ever appear again and its been a collectors item. Why? Because the body shell can be remove and match fit to my KYOSHO MINI-Z chassis perfectly since the sizing is actually the same. Plus it comes with lighting system for front headlights and rear brake lights which need extra re-routing to the power source. Ahhhhh...i'm so happy today. My animal instinct was right when some force persuade me to take a quick visit to the toy shop. YESSSS!!!!
Monday, February 25, 2008
40000 rpm motors for my mini-z rc
Well today i didn't work much on my 3d models or any design. Mostly today i spent much of my time at town with my buddy looking for mini-z radio control upgrades. Planned just for windows shopping survey for parts before planing my initial budget next week but there were limited pack of motor for upgrade at "Toys World". At first i was aiming for TAMIYA PLASMA motor which rev around 2900 rpm or decent TAMIYA TORQUE TUNED motor which is the best so far but another motor above the shelf hit 40000 rpm!!! left two packs so i grab the last two boxes, paid in cash and heads home happily! why? because those motors are rare to find especially around this city as we've search up and downs every corner of the shop looking for ultimate parts for r/c upgrades.
At home upon inspection it was highly tuned motors using carbon brushing and fully bearings shaft! Online manual for mini-z upgrade won't allowed these hi-rev motor as it could fried my ESC (Electronic Speed Controller) without FETs chip upgrades unless i installed external Turbo device. The only option i should put this motor on is to installed on cheap R/C such as my Auldey monster or that Race-Tin Gen 3 can. I'm not going to put my hundreds dollars of I-WAVER R/C cooked. Hope fully next week mod we could see this motor hit around 80-89KM/H. And fried PCB board. I hope i can post it in youtube.com soon.
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