What a crap day today, my effort to repeatedly install a webcam for my projects ended up in a failure. Its a night vision webcam. However after googled around the internet looks like 90% user also was in the same shoes as i am. Everyone put 200% effort to install at high IQ level but it seems that end user not to blame. I found out its just the manufacturer of the products itself was to blame. All webcam for PC seems to be a part of "quickie" production. Those maunfacturer likes to release products without testing and ended up the user because the free test animal. The only webcam for computer that works 100% was on notebook. I would like to share all the manufacturer "the finger" for making webcam a piece of $hi7 products. Webcam = crap gimmick. At the end of the day i use my old battered Nokia into modded webcam, through third party software it worked!
Showing posts with label setup. Show all posts
Showing posts with label setup. Show all posts
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Arrgghhh!!, installation boohooo..
What a crap day today, my effort to repeatedly install a webcam for my projects ended up in a failure. Its a night vision webcam. However after googled around the internet looks like 90% user also was in the same shoes as i am. Everyone put 200% effort to install at high IQ level but it seems that end user not to blame. I found out its just the manufacturer of the products itself was to blame. All webcam for PC seems to be a part of "quickie" production. Those maunfacturer likes to release products without testing and ended up the user because the free test animal. The only webcam for computer that works 100% was on notebook. I would like to share all the manufacturer "the finger" for making webcam a piece of $hi7 products. Webcam = crap gimmick. At the end of the day i use my old battered Nokia into modded webcam, through third party software it worked!
Saturday, April 11, 2009
The HBX Carbon pro kit and NRX-18 Carbon pro kit
Spent a week setting up this 2 speed freaks, everthing top notch to the end of the world but handling this stiff micro monster still qestionable since it only been 48 hours i've been try to tune it because the suspension and chassis doesn't flex much according to the terrains condition. But a plus when it comes to protecting the innear gear from crushed and misalign do to changing flex effect inside the chassis due to impact and rought terrains.
Thursday, July 17, 2008
KYOSHO MINI-Z Body shell installation (REAL DRIVE edition)
TUTORIAL: HOW TO INSTALL AULDEY (REAL DRIVE EDITION) BODY SHELL INTO MINI-Z CHASSIS
__________________________________________________________________________________
This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .
Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:
1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).
__________________________________________________________________________________
Ok then lets mod:
1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell
Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]
2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.
Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]
3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.
Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]
4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.
Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]
5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.
Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]
6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]
Enjoy.
Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]
PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
-------------------------------------------------
Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]
Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]
__________________________________________________________________________________
This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .
Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:
1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).
__________________________________________________________________________________
Ok then lets mod:
1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell
Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]
2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.
Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]
3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.
Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]
4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.
Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]
5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.
Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]
Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]
6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]
Enjoy.
Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]
PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
-------------------------------------------------
Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:
[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]
Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]
[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]
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