Limited SUBARU WRC...last spare

Just 4 hours ago i manage to quickly browse in to our local toy store and grab limited edition SUBARU WRC body shell which will be ripped off and used back into KYOSHO MINI-Z...although i did have one previously but this time i bought another same model for spare and future use for clean run and display. I learn my lesson from the past, "if you like it then get it with no regrets, else you'll be sorry forever". I rather not taking my chances having to wait months for another stock replacement or maybe gone forever

KYOSHO MINI-Z Body shell installation (REAL DRIVE edition)

TUTORIAL: HOW TO INSTALL AULDEY (REAL DRIVE EDITION) BODY SHELL INTO MINI-Z CHASSIS
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This is a special tutorial for all MINI-Z community and fans out there especially my buddies at http://www.rctech.net .


Before you start you need to prepare this tools and material:

1. Narrow pliers
2. Screw driver
3. Super Glue (BOSTIK/SELLEY)
4. KYOSHO/I-WAVER side/door body clip 1 pair
5. VELCRO strap. (the one that have furry zippy strap used to secure school shoes instead of using shoe lace).

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Ok then lets mod:

1. First remove the screw from AULDEY main chassis and extract the body shell

Picture: (All AULDEY models body are secured by two screw infront which you have to remove first, remove the black plastic top. The side of the body however is snap locked to a body clip just like mini-z which you can remove it by expanding the wall outwards creating big gap for the chassis tab to escape just like how you remove your MINI-Z chassis.... infact the installation of the BODY shell process on AULDEY is similar to MINI-Z except front of AULDEY is secured by screw)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/1329/dsc02489tw9.jpg[/img]


2. Inside you'll see some LED lighting wires kit dangling around, stick it with tape so it won't hanging around freely, don't remove the wires and LED set yet because who knows you might need it for cool lighting mods.

Picture: (Careful when remove, the light kits wire still connected)
[img]http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/9200/dsc02491xf6.jpg[/img]

Picture: (Here's my AULDEY SUBARU body shell with instant wire patched to the inner body to avoid it from exposed/touching the antenna and motors)
[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/81/dsc02493ad8.jpg[/img]


3. You'll notice there's a plastic pillar on both side of the inner door, glue the door CLIP TABS on both side of the inner door.

Picture: (Here how i attached the two BODY CLIP TABS to the wall with super sticky glue)
[img]http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/6696/dsc02498ya2.jpg[/img]

Picture: (Here also a clean BODY CLIP attachment)
[img]http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4059/dsc02500aa1.jpg[/img]

4. Done? Then drill a hole on the roof of the chassis where you antenna should poke out from the shell.

Picture: (The carefull when you drill an ABS type plastic)
[img]http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/3808/dsc02501xz5.jpg[/img]


5. Go to the front nose, stick a VELCRO STRAP using double tape to secure the VELCRO STRAP. The other VELCRO strip you stick it on the front nose of the mini-z chasis so that when you place the body shell the front nose of the body will meet the front nose chassis and the VELCRO will stick together just like a school shoes VELCRO STRAP.

Picture: (Place one side of the VELCRO STRAP on the front nose body shell)
[img]http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6765/dsc02497kp6.jpg[/img]

Picture: (Place another opposite side of VELCRO STRAP on the nose of the chassis in the position where both strap meet and stick when closed together).
[img]http://img367.imageshack.us/img367/2383/dsc02496rm0.jpg[/img]


6. That's it, you're ready to use the body. Make sure you adjust the "T-PLATE" on the chassis the accomodate different body length of AULDEY BODY SHELL between each wheel base.
[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/4856/dsc00558qp7.jpg[/img]

Enjoy.

Picture: (Here picture of AULDEY - SUBARU WRC (Real Drive Edition) body shell fits perfectly on MINI-Z chasis with "T-plate" shift to mid screw hole)
[img]http://img206.imageshack.us/img206/7417/dsc00537hi1.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9858/dsc00540bc5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img519.imageshack.us/img519/7223/dsc00542yw6.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img503.imageshack.us/img503/2513/dsc00544ij4.jpg[/img]


PRE-LIGHT KIT BUILT IN
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Here's is my SUBARU with light kit:

[img]http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/3592/dsc02510ex7.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img501.imageshack.us/img501/9181/dsc02507br5.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8218/dsc02511wy0.jpg[/img]

Here the custom connection to the batteries terminal on MINI-Z tabs:
[img]http://img234.imageshack.us/img234/5686/dsc02504kt8.jpg[/img]

[img]http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/5535/dsc02505kg0.jpg[/img]

Dig the LAST CIVIC TYPE-R

HAHAHAHAHA!! some smart kid try to hide this box of limited edition 1/28 scale TYPE-R body shell behind some toy box in our favorite biggest local toy store in our town but yeah i dig it out! Finders keepers. Been waiting months for this body shell and without hesitation i grab quickly and made immediate purchase without second thoughts knowing this models will never ever appear again and its been a collectors item. Why? Because the body shell can be remove and match fit to my KYOSHO MINI-Z chassis perfectly since the sizing is actually the same. Plus it comes with lighting system for front headlights and rear brake lights which need extra re-routing to the power source. Ahhhhh...i'm so happy today. My animal instinct was right when some force persuade me to take a quick visit to the toy shop. YESSSS!!!!

Apply 3 section painting on 3d surfaces.

Alright you've seen previous stage of 3d models surface normalization process, to day i'm going to continue apply basic color painting onto the models. As always 3 color choices apply to various section of the body surfaces. The color are:

-Silver/grey: for main body
-Dark grey, 90% black: for lines and hollow vents/groove lines
-Drak grey, 50% black: for windows/glasses.

Its looks simple but later on we need to add render to create texture contour. Time for me to hands on photopaint work.

Slow pace work on 3d models today.

Its monday, what do you expect from human nature who just jump into working zone when he look back the relaxing Sunday has gone. So as me being in the Sunday mood. Body felt week and felt so hard to move my mouse click over the screen. 8.00am to 5.00pm in the office ..then 8.00pm till midnight for gaming and modeler community work. urhhh...I felt like Robocop with 30% battery level in my body.

After googling some stuff over the net about my upcoming hobby on Mini-z, at the meantime i had to keep my mind focus finishing my 4x4evo2 3d models "EXAGE". Today i just group up some external and internal meshes into 80% partially complete one package models. The external body modular work and internal cockpit merge together to get better view of my output work. OK, it looks good. The next step is to build undercarriage and axle/suspension system plus discbrake caliper for this car. Hopefully i get it done tomorrow. I can't wait to reach a special phase where texture coating/finishing comes in play.

Its mini week!

I almost forgot about 3d work, but this week i'm all hands on mini-z racing and do some modification work. Currently i'm testing out some performance tune up and manage to bought custom body shell of replica SUBARU WRC blue body shell from third party radio control. I convert it and replace my old yellow SUBARU body shell with new ones. Its looks great and extremely well in details. The new body shell comes with workable headlights! I haven't made and FET chip upgrade but still looking for supplier who could supply and install so that i could put 40000rpm motors.

On the other hands it looks like i need to postponed the release of "EXAGE CD 20.0 XL-AM" model work to next week since i'm all excited full filling my time playing radio control car this week.